Talking about .22 rifles for pest control and rabbiting
The original Sako Finnfire rimfire was popular with pest controllers, particularly for rabbits
Q: I am looking for a decent .22 rimfire for rabbit shooting and pest control. My local gunsmith is selling a second-hand Sako Finnfire for £350 — are they any good?
A: I should say so — I shoot an older Finnfire rimfire and it has never let me down. They were introduced in 1996 as the model to succeed the hugely popular Finnscout Model 78 .22 rimfire rifle and were soon snapped up by pest controllers and vermin shooters worldwide. It is available in three versions: Hunter, the standard model, Varmint, with a heavier barrel, and Range. I would assume the rimfire in question is the Hunter, which has a walnut stock, detachable five-shot magazine and should be screw cut for a sound moderator.
They differ from the newer Sako Quad in that they have a fixed barrel, whereas the Quad has interchangeable barrels. There is a new Finnfire version, the Model 2, but people still rate the original as the best rimfire Sako has made. There are things you should be sure to check before you buy, though.
Is the five-shot magazine there and are there any spares, as the 10-shot magazines are worth having and are expensive.
The bolt should be smooth, and check the bolt face is not gummed up with debris from wax or unburned powder, as this indicates neglect.
Also, with the bolt out, check the ejector is there and unbroken. It is a small sprung wire and easily damaged.
A lot of people shorten rimfire barrels, which is fine, but check the muzzle and threads for a sound moderator are well cut and corrosion free. Original barrels were 22in on the Hunter model.
Finally, do a general check for rust on the blued steel, make sure the stock screws are not damaged and the stock is relatively scratch free and has no small cracks around the pistol grip. If all is well then for £350 it is a bargain — if you don’t buy it, I will.
Jason Harris looks at the four best .22 rimfire bolt-action rifles on the market
Q: I am having trouble choosing a .22 rifle, as I have a limited budget. Can you make some suggestions?
A: The answer is simple. As it is your first rifle for rabbit shooting, you should go for a bolt-action design.
That is not to say that a lever, auto, pump-action or single shot is wrong for you, but a good bolt-action will serve you well, and there is a wide choice.
If you are just after a rabbit shooting rifle, then a fixed-barrel .22LR would suffice, though there is now a rimfire with barrels that can be switched to a different calibre to deal with foxes.
This is the CZ 455, which can switch a barrel to .17 HMR.
Also, there is the Sako Quad, which has four barrel options — .17 Mach 2; .17 HMR; .22LR and .22 WMR.
If, however, you simply require a good rimfire rifle, a CZ 455 or an older second-hand model (CZ 452) would make a superb rabbit rifle.
These rifles are extremely reliable, offer excellent accuracy and are almost impossible to break.
Hundreds of thousands have been made, so there is always a good second-hand choice with either walnut or synthetic stock options and heavy or sporter barrels.
I would definitely buy one with the barrel threaded so that you can fit a sound moderator.
If you are able to spend a little more, then Anschutz rimfires offer excellent quality, match-grade accuracy and superb triggers.
A reader is keen to be the proud owner of a famous English gun but doesn't have a large bank balance, rather a strict budget of £2000 - £3,000.
A pair of Purdeys for Father's Day?
I’ve always wanted to own a Purdey or a Holland & Holland side-by-side. However I’ve yet to receive one as a bequest and can’t afford to order one from new.
Do you have any tips where I could buy one of these great English guns cheaply, on my budget?
A: Caveat emptor – let the buyer beware – is the phrase that springs to mind here.
Your modest bank balance might buy you a used Holland & Holland or budget Purdey shotgun, but it will be old and probably worn out! You can pick them up at auctions from time to time, but to be honest they are past their prime and won’t do you many favours out in the field, even though you could I suppose say you were the proud owner of a Purdey or Holland & Holland.
Built on the Holland & Holland-style nine pin design, the AYA No. 2 is a true sidelock
A better idea
My advice would be to forget this romantic notion. It would be much better to look for a gun in good condition by another English gunmaker.
There are plenty of good examples of used, hand-made English guns on the market at the moment and £2,000 to £3,000 will buy you a sidelock ejector by a good English maker which is in sound condition.
However, if you are willing to have a non-ejector sidelock then you should get one in excellent condition.
Ejectors are not really necessary for most shooting. English boxlocks are also good value, and your budget will buy you an extremely good one.
English shotguns: Here, we go on a mission to find an English shotgun, in excellent condition, at a reasonable price.
Hammerguns are also modestly priced and you could buy a nice hammergun for special shoots and have a modern over-and-under for everyday use.
Second-hand AYA sidelock ejectors are also remarkably good value. It is always best to put your money into a gun that is in good condition. And possibly have some shooting lessons with it too.
Make sure that the gun fits you well and practice mounting with it, so you are ready for success when first out in the field.
I met shop manager Chris Lamb, himself a keen shooting man who particularly enjoys his game and clay shooting. “The second-hand market is a bit patchy at the moment, so it can be good for used gun buyers. The availability of inexpensive new guns is influencing people’s decisions; you can get a new Turkish gun for the price of a pre-owned Italian one. Steel proofed barrels are also becoming a more important part of the deal, and, again, the new gun may be more attractive to some purchasers. Although I personally don’t feel that anyone other than wildfowlers are likely to be affected.”
This German side-by-side is selling for only £295
Advantages
What are the advantages of buying second-hand? “Unless it’s from a premium maker, a second-hand gun has lost all the value that it’s going to lose. That’s a big plus for many people with limited funds. A used gun will probably cost around £500, and although you don’t get the full manufacturer’s warranty we offer a guarantee of between six and 12 months. There’s also the brand; you’re getting the product of a known manufacturer at a fraction of the cost. Mirokus and Brownings always sell well second-hand and don’t hang around for long. Lanber is also popular, I’ve got three people waiting for the right one to come in.”
“Italian shotguns offer great value for money and a strong heritage,” Chris told me. “Spare parts are never an issue, unlike some of the Spanish names that have gone out of business. Having said that, traditional side-by-sides from Spain have always carried a great reputation. I’ve often heard it said that if you can’t afford an English game gun you should buy an AYA.”
So why buy from a shop rather than privately, probably saving a great deal of money? Chris is certain on this. “All our guns are fully inspected, cleaned and serviced before they go on sale, and we provide a warranty against the unlikely event of a problem. We pride ourselves on the second-hand shotguns we supply and customer satisfaction. If you buy privately you’re getting the gun as seen with little chance for comeback if anything goes wrong.”
Shop manager Chris Lamb with a small selection of the second-hand guns available
Checks
The resident gunsmith, Paul Dobson of Caliber & Bore Gunsmiths, suggested some simple checks for a potential buyer:
Mount the gun – does it fit you? The gunsmith may be able to make adjustments, but it is much easier and more cost-effective to buy a used gun that fits to start with. We use a laser system to help check the customer’s compatibility with a potential purchase.
Start at the muzzle end. If the gun has removable chokes, ask for the key and check that they can be taken out – seized chokes can be expensive to get released. Otherwise make sure that the chokes are finger tight.
Check the barrel ribs for dents or rust, and then look over the barrels for signs of damage or wear.
Inspect the insides of the barrels. Look out for pitting or ring bulges.
Take off the fore-end and inspect the faces, especially where metal meets metal. Dents and scratches may indicate heavy wear.
While the fore-end is off, holding the gun by the barrels and give it a small shake. There should be no looseness. Then, holding the stock in one hand and the barrels in the other, gently twist the gun. If there is any movement the gun may be out of proof.
Using snap caps, test the triggers, whether the ejectors (if fitted) operate, and if the safety catch works. Using trigger pull scales, see what the release is – it should be between 3½ and 5 pounds.
Inspect the screws on the action to see if the heads are sharp with flush edges. Any competent gunsmith who may have burred a screw will face it over and polish it back to original condition.
Examine all woodwork thoroughly, and check carefully for any minute cracks.
Spares
You do need to consider sourcing spare parts. “I can still get parts for old Lanbers even today,” Paul told me. “But there are some relatively new guns that I cannot. In these cases I need to machine them myself, this can add expense. Sidelocks are beautiful guns but not cheap to work with; if I were searching for a nice side-by-side I’d look at a standard classic Anson & Deeley pattern boxlock.”
After speaking to Chris and Paul and looking at their stock it was clear that the bargains are out there. You’ll find gun shops offering quality guns at sensible prices all over the country. Hopefully you’ll find the one that’s right for you – good hunting!
Mike George has previously picked out the best second-hand European shotguns, high grade guns and Sporters, now he is back…
Top 5 tips for buying guns second-hand
Make the shop owner is aware of what you want the gun for – clays, walked-up game, wildfowling? They’ll show you the guns that will meet your needs.
Keep an open mind, but decide on a budget and stick to it. It’s easy to get carried away.
Don’t be put off by fixed chokes, the shop owner should be able to tell you what they are. Quarter and half choke are a good combination for general use.
Check the chamber length meets your needs. Older guns may only be chambered for 2½in cartridges. This may be fine for game or clays, but you may want to shoot longer loads.
Proof marks will tell you a lot about the gun, and the sales assistant should be able to help you to interpret them. It’s illegal to sell any firearm that is out of proof. Importantly, the fleur-de-lis mark indicates that a gun is proofed for use with steel shot.
With so many different brands and models on the maket, finding a gun at the right price is tough. So, we’ve given Mike George the hard task of listing his top 20 new and used guns for under a grand
The elegance of this gun suggests that it should cost more than £1,000. The action is neatly blacked to match the barrels, and the inlaid gold-coloured game birds form a neat contrast with the trigger. Even the internal workings within the action are neatly blacked.
Lincoln shotguns have been with us for many years now. They were first imported by Nickersons of Tathwell. Now guns are imported by John Rothery Wholesale. Manufacturers are F.A.I.R (Fabbrica Armi Isodoro Rizzini) – another branch of Italy’s Rizzini dynasty.
Mechanically, the gun is a typical Italian design, with a shallow action, barrels hinged on stub pins, and spring-loaded ejectors. The woodwork is a little plain, but the laser-cut chequering is neatly applied and the butt plate is of hard plastic rather than the horribly sticky rubber things found on many budget-priced shotguns.
The gun is also available in a 12-bore version, with a selection of barrel lengths.
Mike George takes us through the mysteries of proof marks
Some proof marks are a way of finding your gun's age
One of the questions I get asked most frequently is “how old is my gun?”. Most of the questioners have either just acquired a second-hand gun, or are thinking of doing so, and most of the guns have been made in the last 20 years, and usually in Italy, Spain or Japan.
That’s fortunate for me, because I am not an expert on old British proof marks or serial numbers, but – and here’s where I do get lucky – two major gun-producing nations in Europe build date codes in the proof information stamped on their guns. Those nations are Italy and Spain. And Miroku of Japan, who make the traditionally-styled break-action Brownings, have adopted Browning’s date coding system in their serial numbers.
Italian
Let’s look at the Italian system first, because on the face of things it looks complicated. So, before you start, you have to realise that the Italian alphabet contains only 21 letters, there being no k, j, w, x, or y; something that will fool you completely if you try to play Scrabble with a set of the little tiles produced for the Italian market.
Add to that the fact that officials in the Italian proof house in Gardone Val Trompia, near Brescia, choose to miss out other letters, some for logical reasons (for instance, O and Q could easily be mistaken for zero) and others for no apparent reason (G and R, for instance), and you really need a table of letters and years to make complete sense of things.
The letter sequences appear in a little rectangle near the proof information, and if you Internet search for Italian proof house date codes you can find a table going back to 1945. That’s far more information than I have space for here, but here are the date letter codes for the past 20 years:
1997 BI
1998 BL
1999 BM
2000BN
2001BP
2002BS
2003BT
2004 BU
2005 BZ
2006 CA
2007 CB
2008 CC
2009CD
2010 CF
2011 CH
2012 CI
2013 CL
2014 CM
2015 CN
2016 CP
2017 CS
Note that if you pick up an Italian gun made between 1954 and 1974, the date code will be in Roman numerals, and for the immediate post-war period the code is in Arabic numerals – that is the conventional 1,2,3, etc.
Spanish
The Spanish system, as applied by the proof house in Eibar in the Basque Country is, fortunately, much easier to follow. Since 1995 a number presented in blocks of digits presents the information like this:
The first two digits identify the maker (for instance, 16 is AYA, and 13 is Lanber). The second two digits identify the type of gun, and 03 indicates a shotgun. The next sequence of digits is the manufacturer’s serial number, and the last pair of digits is the year of manufacture (for instance, 98 indicates 1998, and 05 indicates 2005).
Perhaps the simplest date coding of the lot is that applied to Japanese-made Miroku shotguns, and the break-action guns they build for Browning. Japan does not have a gun barrel proof act, but the Miroku/Browning system is remarkable for its clarity.
Two letters at the end of the serial number indicate the year. Z=1; Y=2; X=3; W=4; V=5; T=6; R=7; P=8, N=9; and M=0. Therefore, a serial number ending in MV indicates the year 2005.
Guns have to be proofed in Britain to be sold here. Different countries have different codes
Why Codes?
If we think about clear dating on guns, why do we have to have codes at all? It mystifies me – why can’t all countries date-mark their products in plain language? It shouldn’t be too much to ask all manufacturers to put the date of manufacture at the end of the serial number – something like 11/17 to identify the month and year of manufacturer as November 2017, for instance?
It ought to become a rule of the CIP, which is the international organisation of proof houses. The full name of the organisation is the Commission Internationale Pour L’epreuve des Armes a Feu Portatives, and its current membership is 14: Austria, Belgium, Chile, Czech Republic, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Russia, Slovakia, Spain, United Arab Emirates, and the United Kingdom.
Surprisingly, the USA has no law requiring firearms to be proofed.
Britain accepts the proof standards of all CIP member countries, but the products of all other nations have to be proofed in this country before they can be legally sold in the UK. Surely it isn’t too much to ask all of them to accept clear-language date marking, or is there a limit to just how far international co-operation will go?
Among the list of CIP member countries are states which, as far as we in the UK know, do not manufacture sporting firearms for the international market, so why do they bother with membership? It seems that a proof stamp confirming that a military weapon conforms to an international safety standard can be a good sales point.
Proof testing: I often wonder why guns have to be proofed before sale in the UK, whereas they don’t in…
The legalities of re-proofing a gun
Bill Harriman writes: To be sold legally, every cartridge firearm must bear valid proof marks. As the UK is a signatory of the International Proof Commission (CIP), it recognises the proof marks of every other member state. For example, this means that a gun with Belgian proof marks can be sold in the UK without being re-proofed because Belgium is a CIP member. However, as the US has no federated proof system and American makers conduct their own proof tests, US guns must be proofed on arrival in the UK, because the US is not a CIP member.
A gun is said to “go out of proof” if the internal dimensions of its barrel exceed certain defined original dimensions when it was proof tested. This can be caused by corrosion, wear, excessive cleaning with abrasive material, or the deliberate removal of metal, for example, when a gun is rebored.
The Proof Acts require a gun to be re-proofed if it has been “materially weakened” by repair work such as reboring or weld/brazing of the action. Equally, the screw-cutting of a barrel for a sound moderator, the installation of new screw-in chokes and fitting a muzzle-brake require a re-proof.
Guns can also be re-proofed to take different ammunition, any gun which has had its chamber lengthened must be re-proofed.
A reader on a budget of £85- wants to buy a semi-auto from an established manufacturer. What does Mike George recommend?
Browning A5
“I wish to buy a semi-auto, mainly for clays but also for a little pigeon shooting. I don’t really want to spend more than £850, and I want one made by one of the major, well-established manufacturers.”
Finding a bargain second-hand semi-auto
Did you know up to 75 per cent of all the Land Rovers ever made are still on the road? What’s that to do with guns? Well, in an article he wrote in 2013, gunsmith Jason Harris compared the Browning Auto 5 to the Land Rover in terms of long-lived reliability.
To fire an original A5 is a strange experience, in that it works on the long recoil principle, in which the barrel and bolt recoil backwards together until they re-cock the hammer, spit out the fired case, and reload a fresh cartridge from the magazine tube.
After production of the original A5 ceased in 2000, Browning designers started thinking about a replacement, still to be called the A5 but working on a totally different principle. And that’s the gun which is going to be my top choice as a bargain second-hand semi-auto.
A shoot close to my home allows me to walk around with my gun and shoot pest species on days when the keeper is absent. However, a shoulder injury means I can no longer shoot my 12-bore and I am thinking of buying a 28-bore or a .410. I have a bit more than £1,000 to spend, so what do you recommend? Mike George advises
Beretta A400 28-bore semi-auto
A second-hand 28-bore or a .410?
With more than £1,000 to spend on a small-bore shotgun, either a 28-bore or a .410, our reader has plenty of scope. In fact, he could buy a new gun if he so wished, particularly if he looked at the Turkish market. If he chose to buy a nearly-new Turkish O/U, he would have lots of cash left over for ammunition and a spell with a good coach to make sure his new gun fits him and enables him to place his shots accurately, bearing in mind that he will be using a very much reduced load compared to a 28g or 30g 12-bore cartridge.
And therein will lie the secret of comfortable shooting for Jim, because recoil is a product of projectile weight, velocity and gun weight – and the diameter of the barrel has nothing to do with it. With a 28-bore it is possible to shoot a 28g load, which would hurt him more than the same load in his 12-bore. He would be happier with a 20g, or maybe even less. The .410 would be a bit more forgiving, with a maximum load of 20g or less.
Whatever gun Jim chooses, he would be well advised to buy a few single boxes of cartridges in various weights and experiment to see which gun/cartridge combination suits him best before he starts buying ammunition in bulk.
I will be spending all of Jim’s money with this one, because the gun seems to be holding its value well and is currently commanding prices of £1,000 to £1,100 on the second-hand market. It’s also a refection of the fact that the gun wasn’t introduced onto the UK market until 2014, so any second-hand gun isn’t going to be that old and will not have fired that many shots.
Why a semi-auto? Well, the third shot is always handy when doing pest-control work and this is a really elegant little gun. It weighs 5¾lb, which is a full 2lb lighter than the average sporter, and 1½lb lighter than the average 12-bore O/U game gun. So it should be a delight to carry around Jim’s shoot. And, being a semi-auto, the recoil should be lighter than with a conventional, break-action gun.
Mechanically, the gun is a typical Beretta gas-fed semi-auto and I was interested to note that in Jason Harris’s review of the Beretta A400 he recommended lubricating the gas piston with motor oil because of the lubricant’s resistance to high temperatures. Some manufacturers recommend running gas pistons dry but Jason said that although the oil turned black, it was easy to wipe off every time the gun was cleaned.
The gun is a multichoke and comes with a set of multichoke tubes and shims for stock adjustment. Make sure the latter two items are present when buying a second-hand gun. The relatively high, ventilated rib adds to the gun’s elegance, as does the well-presented stock and fore-end.
The gun has a soft rubber recoil pad that doesn’t snag on clothing when it is mounted. The receiver is in a non-reflective satin finish.
Here’s another Turkish offering, which is much more sophisticated than the Huglu – and more expensive, too.
But, like the Huglu, it is built on a proper .410 action, which keeps everything nicely in proportion.
I’m sure we have all seen .410s built on 20-bore actions, which results in barrels with over-thick walls, particularly at the chamber end, and an exaggerated spacing between the tubes towards the muzzles. They’re just plain ugly, which the Yildiz is not.
Unlike the Huglu, the Yildiz .410 illustrated is an ejector, although there are non-ejector models to be had. It’s also a multichoke, so lightly-choked tubes can be put in for close targets. It has a mechanical switch to the second barrel, too.
The action body is in an aluminium alloy, with a steel insert in the breech face to take the recoil, and the gun works on conventional over-and-under principles, with a bolt running along the action floor to engage with a bite in a shallow lump under the lower barrel.
Overall, the gun looks like a scaled-down sporter. The stock terminates in a hard plastic butt plate and there is even a short-stock version available for young shooters.
Huglu .410
Huglu .410
Huglu was among the first of the Turkish gunmakers to dip a toe into the UK market and the company’s range of simple, sturdy guns at highly affordable prices remains quite impressive.
The thing I like about the Huglu .410 gun is its sheer simplicity. It’s a non-ejector, so Jim wouldn’t be groping among the nettles and brambles to pick up his cartridge cases, and it’s also a fixed-choke, choked ¾ and full. This may seem excessive, however, as most .410s are quite tightly choked to make up for the fact that there aren’t that many pellets in the pattern, so you don’t get big gaps.
Chambers are 3in (76mm) and the tubes have been subjected to magnum proof. The safety is automatic and the switch to the second barrel is not reliant on the recoil of the first shot cycling the mechanism, which is another plus point for me.
Simple though the gun may be, I find this model to be quite attractive, with the action body and sideplates having a colour-hardened finish. The woodwork is quite attractive, too, and the second-hand price of well under £500 should hardly make a dent in Jim’s budget.
Shane Robinson tells us what he looks out for and offers some key advice on avoiding potential pitfalls
Don't be afraid to ask the seller to break the gun down into component parts, so you don't miss anything
Last year I was on the BASC stand at the Game Fair at Hatfield House. A young chap came up to me and said that he had been given my name by one of the clay coaches who thought I might be able to help him buying a gun second-hand.
The young chap was after a sensibly priced (around £500) rough-shooting, side-by-side shotgun for a bit of walked-up shooting. He had found two to look at, and was unsure which way to turn next, and asked me what he should look for.
So I decided it would be useful to write an advisory article so you know what to look out for when on buying a gun second-hand.
If it’s a multi-choke, check the choke’s threads for wear and corrosion
When I get second-hand guns coming into the shop, I check the following things:
Depending on the make, model and type of shotgun, I will always break the gun down into its component parts so that I don’t miss anything.
I check the overall condition, and that the action opens and closes cleanly.
Make sure there is no light between the barrels and action, thus ensuring that the gun is not “off the face”. If it is, then the gun cannot be sold.
Slip in some snap caps and pull the triggers, making sure they sound crisp and not dead.
Dry firing the gun helps to ascertain if it is mechanical or has an inertia-operated second barrel.
It also allows you to check the ejector timing and strength.
Checklist
Check the gun is not off the face
Look for pitting in the barrel
Make sure there are no cracks or oil soak in the stock
If possible, fire the gun
Left: Check the fore-end for cracks and othe mechanism to ensure it locks and there is not too much oil soak. Right: Fire in some snap caps and pull the triggers, making sure they sound crisp and not dead.
Break down
After I break the gun down and I’ve checked the components separately. I will then check the fore-end for cracks and splits to the woodwork and operate the mechanism to ensure that it locks in place and there is not too much oil soak apparent. Too much oil used in cleaning is a bad thing because it soaks into the wood and weakens it over time.
I check the barrels both internally and externally, looking for signs of pitting and wear and for any dents that go right through the metal – anything like that can lead to bulges which can ultimately cause major issues if not addressed.
If it’s a multichoke, have the chokes out and check the threads for wear and corrosion. I will always do the “ting” test. I hold the barrels at the chamber end and flick the barrels with my fingers. This can show if the solder on the rib and between the barrel is intact.
Check the barrels both internally and externally, looking for signs of pitting, dents and wear
Metal fatigue
The stock and action are again given an all-over check to make sure that the wood-to-metal fit is good and no cracks are in the stock.
Chequering wear is a good gauge for how much use the gun has had.
The position of the top lever can also show wear and tear. When the gun is new, almost certainly the top-lever spring is over to the far right of travel. As the spring is used over time, the spring wears down and the lever will travel toward the centre of the stock.
Check the breech face for corrosion and the firing-pin condition because you can often see the top of the pin.
Look at metal fatigue because some of the entry level, or cheaper, guns’ metalwork is subject to wearing out faster than better quality guns.
Don’t forget to look at the stock for signs of oil soak. Most guns are stored stock down so oil will travel and ultimately come to rest in the stock. Any discolouration is a giveaway.
Lewis Potter looks at the variables to consider if it's better to buy a secondhand gun or a new one
Semi-autos
I handle the semi-autos in the same way, although there are more moving parts so there is a lot more to look for. I do a full strip with the fore-end off and check over the barrel, paying particular attention to a few tell-tale areas.
The gas ports on gas-recoil guns need to be kept clear because this can be the biggest cause of coughing on lighter loads. Have the gas valve system out and ensure that it all appears to be okay.
Some older guns have a rubber “O” ring that needs checking. Newer models have a metal split ring that can fatigue and fracture.
Some models have a power piston for bigger loads, so make sure that all the components are there. If you don’t, and you fire it without the bits in place, there is a good chance you will damage the fore-end.
All springs are checked for damage, wear and corrosion, especially the stock spring because similarly to oil soak, all water will travel to the stock and sit in there happily rusting away your springs.
I mentioned before about metal quality on cheaper guns and I have found that the magazine tubes are a really good indicator of number of shots fired. Guns like the ones from Hatsan use aluminium for the magazine tube and this “flame erodes” over time.
In some cases, when the owner trying to sell the gun says it’s only had a few hundred shots though it, the gun has actually had several thousand through it. This can also be backed up by taking out the trigger mechanism and looking at the striker. These are made of soft metal and show signs of wear very easily.
Ask to have the gun stripped and shown fully
My advice to anyone looking to buying a gun second-hand is, don’t be afraid to ask the seller or trader to have the gun stripped and shown fully. We often send guns out on approval, although most buyers will come to us because we have clay traps on site to allow the buyer to shoot the gun. Firstly, this proves that the gun is fit for purpose and works correctly, and, secondly, proves to the buyer that they can actually shoot the gun before parting with what, at times, can be a considerable amount of money. After all, who buys a second-hand car without a test drive?
“I have always wanted to own a Browning, and now I believe some models may fall within my budget. I shoot pigeons and game, and I am also a member of a clay shooting club not far from where I live. In other words, I am an all-rounder.”
Mechnically, the Browning B525 Game gun hadn't changed from its predecessor. The engraving on the action has a game scene on each side, with a pheasant on one side and duck on the other
When Browning introduced the B725 shotgun a little over two years ago, the reaction among a number of shooters was to ask why they…
£1,600.00
Mike George’s buying advice for choosing the best used Browning for an all-rounder
When John Moses Browning’s famous B25 model first appeared in the gun shops in 1926, the makers boasted that it contained 22 different types of steel and the gun’s 84 parts went through 794 different precision operations. Different heat treatments were applied to 64 of those parts, and 1,490 instruments and gauges subjected the gun’s components to 2,310 different checks and measurements.
All of the gun’s parts were hand-fitted, and skilled craftsmen carried out 155 different operations. By the standards of the age, the gun’s production required the employment of a large number of skilled artisans. The B25 was certainly a work of art but, in modern terms, it was also a production engineer’s worst nightmare, which is one of the reasons why, in the middle 1960s, Browning formed an alliance with Miroku of Japan to build a series of shotguns affordable to the average shooter.
The guns were called the Citori range, and they still are in the USA. The name always makes me smile, because “Citori” actually means nothing in anyone’s language, but is an invention of the Browning marketing department.
Anyway, it is within the ranks of the Miroku-built Brownings that we shall find a gun for David.
Mechnically, the Browning B525 Game gun hadn’t changed from its predecessor. The engraving on the action has a game scene on each side, with a pheasant on one side and duck on the other
The B525 in its many forms has been with us for 15 years now, but a new version of the game gun came out a couple of years ago, so David should be able to afford one if he can find an example on the second-hand shelves.
There weren’t many updates to the gun, although one reviewer found the woodwork better than what is usual on Grade 1 Brownings. On a casual glance the most obvious change is the substitution of the old hard plastic butt plate with a soft rubber pad.
I’m recommending the game version rather than the sporter because David seems to prefer field shooting to clays, and, for the field, the weight at 7¼lb is just right.
Barrels are 28in or 30in, and I’d recommend the 30in unless David does a lot of shooting from a hide, where the longer tubes can sometimes be a handicap to rapid reloading.
The barrels have solid side ribs, and the parallel top rib is ¼in wide and terminates in a small brass bead foresight – something I like on a game gun.
The tubes, with 3-inch chambers, are internally chromium plated, and have been submitted to steel shot proof. When buying this latest version second-hand, be sure that the two spare choke tubes, the original black carry case, and the kit to change the mechanism to auto-safety, are all present.
There was a fear that when Browning brought out the B725 range, the much-loved B525 would be allowed to die out. Instead, it seems the model still has a bright future.
When I began researching the Cynergy I was surprised it was no longer featured on the manufacturer’s European website. However, it features strongly on the company’s USA website, which perhaps shows that while European shooters found it too advanced, the Americans have no such hang-ups.
All that said, there are quite a few around on the second-hand racks, at prices David will be able to afford.
So, what’s so weird and wonderful about the Cynergy? Well, the most obvious feature is that the jointing seems to have been made back-to-front, in that the convex part of the knuckle is on the fore-end iron, and the concave part is on the forward end of the action housing.
What’s more, there is no cross-pin or stub pins, but the gun is hinged on quarter-circular cut-outs in the barrel monobloc mating with quarter-circular projections in the action walls. I’ve only ever seen such a feature on one other gun – the Swedish-built Flodman I tested in the mid-1980s.
And if the jointing isn’t unusual enough, there are no hammers within the action, the firing pins being propelled forward by the main springs through a series of levers. When the gun came out in 2004, Browning claimed that this arrangement gave an exceptionally fast lock time.
This could be for David if he wants something unusual, I’m sure it would be the subject of great curiosity among his friends.
This would be the gun for David if he found the game version too light. He’d appreciate a bit of extra weight if he struggles with recoil, or prefers 32g cartridges for his game and pigeon shooting. Like all good Sporters, it weighs around 7¾lb.
Like the game model, the Sporter hasn’t been totally eclipsed by the B725, and it is still available as a new gun. The 525 series was introduced in 2003, and at one time I counted 27 variations and, if you took account of different barrel lengths available, there was a mind-boggling selection of over 50 different guns.
Talking about .22 rifles for pest control and rabbiting
Q: I am looking for a decent .22 rimfire for rabbit shooting and pest control. My local gunsmith is selling a second-hand Sako Finnfire for £350 — are they any good?
A: I should say so — I shoot an older Finnfire rimfire and it has never let me down. They were introduced in 1996 as the model to succeed the hugely popular Finnscout Model 78 .22 rimfire rifle and were soon snapped up by pest controllers and vermin shooters worldwide. It is available in three versions: Hunter, the standard model, Varmint, with a heavier barrel, and Range. I would assume the rimfire in question is the Hunter, which has a walnut stock, detachable five-shot magazine and should be screw cut for a sound moderator.
They differ from the newer Sako Quad in that they have a fixed barrel, whereas the Quad has interchangeable barrels. There is a new Finnfire version, the Model 2, but people still rate the original as the best rimfire Sako has made. There are things you should be sure to check before you buy, though.
Is the five-shot magazine there and are there any spares, as the 10-shot magazines are worth having and are expensive.
The bolt should be smooth, and check the bolt face is not gummed up with debris from wax or unburned powder, as this indicates neglect.
Also, with the bolt out, check the ejector is there and unbroken. It is a small sprung wire and easily damaged.
A lot of people shorten rimfire barrels, which is fine, but check the muzzle and threads for a sound moderator are well cut and corrosion free. Original barrels were 22in on the Hunter model.
Finally, do a general check for rust on the blued steel, make sure the stock screws are not damaged and the stock is relatively scratch free and has no small cracks around the pistol grip. If all is well then for £350 it is a bargain — if you don’t buy it, I will.
Jason Harris looks at the four best .22 rimfire bolt-action rifles on the market
Q: I am having trouble choosing a .22 rifle, as I have a limited budget. Can you make some suggestions?
A: The answer is simple. As it is your first rifle for rabbit shooting, you should go for a bolt-action design.
That is not to say that a lever, auto, pump-action or single shot is wrong for you, but a good bolt-action will serve you well, and there is a wide choice.
If you are just after a rabbit shooting rifle, then a fixed-barrel .22LR would suffice, though there is now a rimfire with barrels that can be switched to a different calibre to deal with foxes.
This is the CZ 455, which can switch a barrel to .17 HMR.
Also, there is the Sako Quad, which has four barrel options — .17 Mach 2; .17 HMR; .22LR and .22 WMR.
If, however, you simply require a good rimfire rifle, a CZ 455 or an older second-hand model (CZ 452) would make a superb rabbit rifle.
These rifles are extremely reliable, offer excellent accuracy and are almost impossible to break.
Hundreds of thousands have been made, so there is always a good second-hand choice with either walnut or synthetic stock options and heavy or sporter barrels.
I would definitely buy one with the barrel threaded so that you can fit a sound moderator.
If you are able to spend a little more, then Anschutz rimfires offer excellent quality, match-grade accuracy and superb triggers.
A reader is keen to be the proud owner of a famous English gun but doesn't have a large bank balance, rather a strict budget of £2000 - £3,000.
A pair of Purdeys for Father's Day?
I’ve always wanted to own a Purdey or a Holland & Holland side-by-side. However I’ve yet to receive one as a bequest and can’t afford to order one from new.
Do you have any tips where I could buy one of these great English guns cheaply, on my budget?
A: Caveat emptor – let the buyer beware – is the phrase that springs to mind here.
Your modest bank balance might buy you a used Holland & Holland or budget Purdey shotgun, but it will be old and probably worn out! You can pick them up at auctions from time to time, but to be honest they are past their prime and won’t do you many favours out in the field, even though you could I suppose say you were the proud owner of a Purdey or Holland & Holland.
Built on the Holland & Holland-style nine pin design, the AYA No. 2 is a true sidelock
A better idea
My advice would be to forget this romantic notion. It would be much better to look for a gun in good condition by another English gunmaker.
There are plenty of good examples of used, hand-made English guns on the market at the moment and £2,000 to £3,000 will buy you a sidelock ejector by a good English maker which is in sound condition.
However, if you are willing to have a non-ejector sidelock then you should get one in excellent condition.
Ejectors are not really necessary for most shooting. English boxlocks are also good value, and your budget will buy you an extremely good one.
English shotguns: Here, we go on a mission to find an English shotgun, in excellent condition, at a reasonable price.
Hammerguns are also modestly priced and you could buy a nice hammergun for special shoots and have a modern over-and-under for everyday use.
Second-hand AYA sidelock ejectors are also remarkably good value. It is always best to put your money into a gun that is in good condition. And possibly have some shooting lessons with it too.
Make sure that the gun fits you well and practice mounting with it, so you are ready for success when first out in the field.
I met shop manager Chris Lamb, himself a keen shooting man who particularly enjoys his game and clay shooting. “The second-hand market is a bit patchy at the moment, so it can be good for used gun buyers. The availability of inexpensive new guns is influencing people’s decisions; you can get a new Turkish gun for the price of a pre-owned Italian one. Steel proofed barrels are also becoming a more important part of the deal, and, again, the new gun may be more attractive to some purchasers. Although I personally don’t feel that anyone other than wildfowlers are likely to be affected.”
This German side-by-side is selling for only £295
Advantages
What are the advantages of buying second-hand? “Unless it’s from a premium maker, a second-hand gun has lost all the value that it’s going to lose. That’s a big plus for many people with limited funds. A used gun will probably cost around £500, and although you don’t get the full manufacturer’s warranty we offer a guarantee of between six and 12 months. There’s also the brand; you’re getting the product of a known manufacturer at a fraction of the cost. Mirokus and Brownings always sell well second-hand and don’t hang around for long. Lanber is also popular, I’ve got three people waiting for the right one to come in.”
“Italian shotguns offer great value for money and a strong heritage,” Chris told me. “Spare parts are never an issue, unlike some of the Spanish names that have gone out of business. Having said that, traditional side-by-sides from Spain have always carried a great reputation. I’ve often heard it said that if you can’t afford an English game gun you should buy an AYA.”
So why buy from a shop rather than privately, probably saving a great deal of money? Chris is certain on this. “All our guns are fully inspected, cleaned and serviced before they go on sale, and we provide a warranty against the unlikely event of a problem. We pride ourselves on the second-hand shotguns we supply and customer satisfaction. If you buy privately you’re getting the gun as seen with little chance for comeback if anything goes wrong.”
Shop manager Chris Lamb with a small selection of the second-hand guns available
Checks
The resident gunsmith, Paul Dobson of Caliber & Bore Gunsmiths, suggested some simple checks for a potential buyer:
Mount the gun – does it fit you? The gunsmith may be able to make adjustments, but it is much easier and more cost-effective to buy a used gun that fits to start with. We use a laser system to help check the customer’s compatibility with a potential purchase.
Start at the muzzle end. If the gun has removable chokes, ask for the key and check that they can be taken out – seized chokes can be expensive to get released. Otherwise make sure that the chokes are finger tight.
Check the barrel ribs for dents or rust, and then look over the barrels for signs of damage or wear.
Inspect the insides of the barrels. Look out for pitting or ring bulges.
Take off the fore-end and inspect the faces, especially where metal meets metal. Dents and scratches may indicate heavy wear.
While the fore-end is off, holding the gun by the barrels and give it a small shake. There should be no looseness. Then, holding the stock in one hand and the barrels in the other, gently twist the gun. If there is any movement the gun may be out of proof.
Using snap caps, test the triggers, whether the ejectors (if fitted) operate, and if the safety catch works. Using trigger pull scales, see what the release is – it should be between 3½ and 5 pounds.
Inspect the screws on the action to see if the heads are sharp with flush edges. Any competent gunsmith who may have burred a screw will face it over and polish it back to original condition.
Examine all woodwork thoroughly, and check carefully for any minute cracks.
Spares
You do need to consider sourcing spare parts. “I can still get parts for old Lanbers even today,” Paul told me. “But there are some relatively new guns that I cannot. In these cases I need to machine them myself, this can add expense. Sidelocks are beautiful guns but not cheap to work with; if I were searching for a nice side-by-side I’d look at a standard classic Anson & Deeley pattern boxlock.”
After speaking to Chris and Paul and looking at their stock it was clear that the bargains are out there. You’ll find gun shops offering quality guns at sensible prices all over the country. Hopefully you’ll find the one that’s right for you – good hunting!
Mike George has previously picked out the best second-hand European shotguns, high grade guns and Sporters, now he is back…
Top 5 tips for buying guns second-hand
Make the shop owner is aware of what you want the gun for – clays, walked-up game, wildfowling? They’ll show you the guns that will meet your needs.
Keep an open mind, but decide on a budget and stick to it. It’s easy to get carried away.
Don’t be put off by fixed chokes, the shop owner should be able to tell you what they are. Quarter and half choke are a good combination for general use.
Check the chamber length meets your needs. Older guns may only be chambered for 2½in cartridges. This may be fine for game or clays, but you may want to shoot longer loads.
Proof marks will tell you a lot about the gun, and the sales assistant should be able to help you to interpret them. It’s illegal to sell any firearm that is out of proof. Importantly, the fleur-de-lis mark indicates that a gun is proofed for use with steel shot.
With so many different brands and models on the maket, finding a gun at the right price is tough. So, we’ve given Mike George the hard task of listing his top 20 new and used guns for under a grand
The elegance of this gun suggests that it should cost more than £1,000. The action is neatly blacked to match the barrels, and the inlaid gold-coloured game birds form a neat contrast with the trigger. Even the internal workings within the action are neatly blacked.
Lincoln shotguns have been with us for many years now. They were first imported by Nickersons of Tathwell. Now guns are imported by John Rothery Wholesale. Manufacturers are F.A.I.R (Fabbrica Armi Isodoro Rizzini) – another branch of Italy’s Rizzini dynasty.
Mechanically, the gun is a typical Italian design, with a shallow action, barrels hinged on stub pins, and spring-loaded ejectors. The woodwork is a little plain, but the laser-cut chequering is neatly applied and the butt plate is of hard plastic rather than the horribly sticky rubber things found on many budget-priced shotguns.
The gun is also available in a 12-bore version, with a selection of barrel lengths.
From flintlock 50-bore pocket pistols, to 20-bore hammer guns perfect for this coming season, Holt’s auctioneers presents a treasure trove of lots
Fancy something new for the coming season?
A sealed bid auction ending this Thursday 5th July provides a unique platform for buyers to pick up a wide variety of sporting guns, rifles, antiques and associated (and sometimes completely unassociated) accessories and ephemera.
Highest bid wins at full value
Utilising the ‘sealed bid’ format, clients have a set deadline to enter a written bid on items in the auction and the highest bidder on the day will win the lot at his designated bid.
Unusually, the auction does not work on an incremental basis, so the highest bid will win at full value regardless of any other bidding activity. The key to success, therefore, is bid what you are prepared to pay.
Over 2474 Lots in the Holts sealed bid auction on 5 July
Over 2500 Lots to consider
Impressively, the auctions usually consist of over 2500 Lots including everything from sporting guns, rifles, target and service rifles to antique guns, air weapons, edged weapons, militaria, accessories, clothing and often a smattering of completely random entries which might be just the thing for a fancy dress-do.
It usually encompasses the more modest end of the market, generally under £1000 in value – but some true bargains can be had.
Nick Holt has never been in a house more insane than this one at Aynhoe Park in his life, or…
View online
Each auction is available to view online via the Holts website, is temporarily on view at their London saleroom during their quarterly live auction views and can be viewed in person at their Norfolk headquarters in the run up to the deadline.
The auction deadline falls on Thursday 5th July at 10:30am, with 2474 Lots to choose from.
You don't have to break the bank to kit yourself out with a decent air rifle. Mat Manning suggests some reliable options for less than £500
One of the greatest appeals of airgun shooting is its affordability. For a few hundred pounds — and sometimes significantly less — you can pick up an air rifle that should give years of reliable service.
With Christmas looming large on the horizon, it is likely more than a few readers will be thinking about buying an entry-level air rifle — either as a treat for themselves or to introduce a son or daughter to shooting. With that in mind, I’ve pulled together some of what I believe to be the best affordable airguns on the market.
Even with the top spend set at £500, these guns cover quite a wide cost spectrum and the adage “you get what you pay for” certainly rings true here. Nonetheless, I have used all of the airguns listed in this round-up in the field and can vouch for the fact all are capable of delivering decent performance, as long as you tailor your expectations to suit their price tags.
They may not be high-end models boasting pinpoint long-range precision and beautifully sculpted and figured walnut stocks, but these air rifles are capable of much more than simply toppling tins in the backyard. Even the cheaper ones produce muzzle energy approaching the 12ft/lb legal limit, as well as being powerful and accurate enough to despatch cleanly small pests such as rats, grey squirrels, rabbits, pigeons and corvids, as long as they are set up properly and used over sensible ranges.
Remington Express
1.Remington Express RRP £159.95
The Remington Express package may come in at just £159.95, but its looks, feel and performance significantly outperform its modest asking price. The kit even includes a telescopic sight and mounts. A classic break-barrel springer, it is styled to look like a traditional Sporter and housed in an ambidextrous hardwood stock, with chequering on the fore-end and pistol grip, and an effective ventilated rubber recoil pad.
The Express weighs around 7lb 8oz without the scope fitted and is 45in long. The barrel is relatively long at 18in, but the extra leverage makes easy work of the cocking stroke. Engineering is tidy throughout and the breech lock-up mechanism is secure.
Adjustable fibre-optic sights come fitted but most people will want to use the supplied scope to make the most of this airgun’s accuracy potential. Other features include resettable automatic safety catch and two-stage trigger. Sportsmarketing
Hatsan Breaker 900X
2.Hatsan Breaker 900X RRP £120
With prices starting at £120, the Turkish-made Hatsan Breaker is an extremely affordable air rifle. Don’t be fooled by its modest asking price, though. It is solidly built and capable of reasonable accuracy out to around 25m.
The finish is tidy, the ambidextrous hardwood stock features some chequering around the pistol grip and a soft rubber recoil pad with a neat white spacer. Tipping the scales at around 6lb 8oz and measuring 44in from muzzle to butt, the Breaker 900X is a fairly compact model and should therefore be manageable for younger shooters.
This Hatsan is spring-powered and works around a traditional break-barrel action. It is relatively smooth to cock and felt recoil is modest. Features include a surprisingly good two-stage trigger, integral sound moderator, adjustable fibre-optic open sights and automatic safety catch.
The cylinder is machined with dovetail rails for scope attachment and there is a recoil arrester to stop the mounts from creeping. Edgar Brothers
Weihrauch HW 95K
3.Weihrauch HW 95K RRP £395
German gunmaker Weihrauch has a reputation for producing accurate and reliable air rifles, and the £395 HW 95K is no exception. Engineering is excellent, as is the finish of the blueing and the ambidextrous beech stock, which features a brown rubber recoil pad. Chequering on the fore-end and pistol grip is both elegant and functional.
The HW 95K has no open sights, but is equipped with dovetail rails for scope attachment and comes supplied with Weihrauch’s effective sound moderator. Even with the moderator fitted, this airgun still measures up at a fairly compact 45in and weighs 7lb 4oz.
The cocking stroke is smooth, the breech lock-up is extremely secure and the firing cycle is crisp with little felt recoil. Features include automatic safety catch and Weihrauch’s legendary two-stage adjustable Rekord trigger unit. Matched with the right pellet, this airgun is accurate to 35m and beyond. Hull Cartridge
Walther Rotex RM8 Varmint
4.Walther Rotex RM8 Varmint RRP £399
Pre-charged airguns can be expensive but you don’t have to spend a fortune to buy a decent one. The German-made Walther Rotex RM8 from Umarex has a recommended retail price of just £399, though you do need to add a scope and mounts.
You will also need charging gear, either in the shape of a manual pump or a more expensive diving bottle. Many gun shops will do a deal if you buy charging kit with a new gun, and once you have got it you can use the same setup for any other pre-charged airguns you go on to own.
The RM8 Varmint’s stock is an ambidextrous thumbhole design, moulded from a tough polymer that can stand up well to any knocks and bumps in the field. It incorporates a fore-end accessory rail for sling and bipod attachment, stippled fore-end and pistol grip and ventilated butt pad. It is solidly built and weight comes in at just under 8lb, though it measures up at a very pointable 41in
Walther’s airgun runs an eight-shot rotary magazine, and accuracy potential is greatly enhanced by its recoil-less firing cycle — expect half-inch groups at 40m with the right pellet. The magazine is indexed by a very positive side-bolt mechanism, which also cocks the gun and probes the pellet into the breech.
Features include pressure gauge, two-stage trigger and a 400cc bottle that delivers around 180 shots per fill. Bisley
Zbroia Hortitsia
5.Zbroia Hortitsia RRP £449.99
I would be lying if I said my expectations were particularly high when I first heard that I was going to be testing an airgun made in the Ukraine. But the Zbroia Hortitsia turned out to be a huge surprise and I even have one of my own, which has given great service over the past year.
Easier to shoot than it is to pronounce, this impressive recoil-less pre-charged pneumatic is capable of landing pellet on pellet out to 30m, and still groups tightly at 40m. It retails at £449.99 but, as with the RM8, you have to factor in the additional cost of a telescopic sight, mounts and charging gear.
This carbine rifle measures a stubby 35in and weighs 6lb 8oz without a scope fitted. I’m 6ft 2in and find it comfortable to shoot, and my 10-year-old daughter can also manage it when shooting from a rest. Being such a small gun, it is great for younger shooters and handles very well in the confines of a hide or inside farm buildings.
Engineering and finish are very tidy and, though its design is somewhat stylised, the hardwood stock makes for a comfortable and balanced hold.
The cocking and loading sequence is smooth and fast, thanks to the straight-pull rear bolt action, which drives a very reliable 12-shot magazine. The set-up makes for fast-fire fun on the plinking range and quick follow-up shots in the field.
Features include two-stage trigger, manual safety catch, pressure gauge and shrouded barrel. Pellpax
Air rifles: I was rabbiting recently with a .177 air rifle, but I couldn’t hit anything. Is this calibre powerful…
Gamo Phox Pack
6.Gamo Phox Pack RRP £499
A few years ago I would have said it was almost impossible to pick up a reliable new pre-charged pneumatic air rifle, complete with scope, mounts and charging gear, for under £500. However, the Gamo Phox Pack does exactly that.
Just scraping into the budget limit for this feature, it offers outstanding value for its £499 recommended retail price. Apart from a very accurate multi-shot pre-charged airgun, the kit also includes a pretty good 3-9×40 zoom scope with mounts, sound moderator, gun bag and a manual stirrup pump for air filling — just add pellets and it is ready to go.
The solidly constructed Phox is 38in long and weighs a little over 8lb. It runs a slick 10-shot rotary magazine, which is driven by a smooth and positive rear bolt action. Based on Gamo’s successful Coyote airgun, it is cradled in a tough synthetic ambidextrous thumbhole stock that features a steep pistol grip and high cheekpiece and is adorned with grippy stippled panels. As well as looking good, the Phox is very accurate, thanks to its recoil-less firing cycle and high-quality cold hammer-forged barrel.
The chunky Whisper moderator really boosts stealth by hushing down muzzle report to a quiet “pap”. Air capacity is sufficient for more than 65 consistent full-power shots from a single fill before it is time for another workout with the stirrup pump. Other features include pressure gauge, manual safety catch and a very crisp two-stage CAT trigger. Gamo
The Medallist was a well-designed shotgun for the entry-level mass market, says Charles Smith-Jones
There can be very few people who have not heard of the Browning Arms Company. Founded in 1878, the company quickly developed a deserved reputation not just for the manufacture of sporting and military firearms but also for a wide range of fishing tackle and other sporting goods. Co-founder John Moses Browning is widely regarded as one of the world’s most prolific inventors of firearms and his name is synonymous with quality.
It is, however, important to recognise from the start that the Browning Medallist was never actually made by Browning — it was simply distributed by the company. Early production of the Medallist was instead done by the Italian shotgun manufacturer Zoli to Browning specifications, but for reasons of cost and over-complication of design soon switched to FIAS — better known as Sabatti — another Italian company.
A robust and well-designed shotgun
The Medallist has always been a robust and well-designed shotgun intended for the mass market as an entry-level budget model. Apart from the very earliest ones, which tended to be a little over-complicated, the action design quickly evolved to become much more straightforward and reliable.
Browning Medallist tech specs
Weight: 7lb 8oz
Overall Length: 48in
Barrel: 28 and 30 in
Length of pull 14¾ in
Drop at comb: 1½ in
Rib: 8mm
Heel to toe: 1 ¾ in
All the woodwork is well finished
Switch
The single trigger uses a sear system to switch between barrels. The transfer to the second sear is operated by an inertia mechanism driven by recoil. One shooting fault that I have noticed, especially among beginners, is that if the gun is not firmly seated in the shoulder when fired, the transfer will not take place and as a result the second barrel will not fire.
The safety is conveniently placed in the usual location on the top strap and it doubles as a barrel selector. While the safety catch is non-automatic, it can easily be converted by a competent gunsmith to automatic if that option is preferred, which is often the case when the gun is to be used for field shooting rather than the clay line.
As far as looks are concerned, the Medallist has a very “Italian” feel to it with a shallow action frame and a slim, well-chequered pistol grip, which is very comfortable to hold. The comb may feel a little high but, if desired, this is something that can be easily altered. The walnut woodwork is strong if somewhat basic, with a lacquered finish that some owners choose to strip off and refinish with oil.
The action exterior is finished in bright silver, quite heavily but attractively decorated with machined scrolling. The top rib of the barrel is ventilated for lightness and cooling, cross-cut to reduce glare, and fitted with a foresight bead. A brass midsight is sometimes located halfway down the barrel.
The interior tubes of the barrels are chromed to resist corrosion and the spring-loaded extractors are very positive.
The Medallist can be something of a “Marmite” gun among more experienced shots, some of whom have experienced mechanical problems, particularly with older models. These are usually issues with the woodwork or a dislike of the balance. Others swear by them and point out that the Medallist is certainly not, nor was it ever, intended as a competitor for the more expensive high-end alternatives.
The Browning Medallist shotgun is good for those new to shooting and buying on a tight budget.
Better option
To get a professional opinion I spoke to Chris Lamb, manager of the Country Sports Shop in Newton Abbot, Devon. He likes the Medallist. “The 20-bores are often the better option,” he said. “They tend to be more reliable and the actions have held up better over time. The 12s can be good as well, but need to be checked more carefully as they can loosen up, and take special care with the earlier Zoli production models.”
He also warns that, if a gun doesn’t come a full selection of chokes, you need to be aware that replacements can be difficult to find.
The Medallist is in many ways perfect for the beginner and adapts well for most clay, game and pigeon disciplines, though heavy loads for wildfowling are not really an option.
It is relatively trouble free and any repairs tend to be restricted to simple issues such as worn springs and ejectors, which are easily replaced.
Overall this is a gun that was built to last. It is robust and affordable, a bit of an all-rounder and is certainly worth considering.
The Bettinsoli Super Sport is a clay shooter’s dream in the quality of its build and the way it handles, not to mention its competitive price, says Charles Smith-Jones
The Bettinsoli Super Sport
The Bettinsoli Super Sport was based on the older Silver model and is an excellent example of its work. It became available in this country just under 20 years ago and was imported by RUAG Ammotec of Cornwall. Production ended only fairly recently.
Good value
As the name suggests, the Bettinsoli Super Sport is an out-and-out sporting gun, aimed specifically at the clayshooting market. It offers a lot of gun for a modest price. You may come across it wrongly described as the Tarcisio. In fact, the engraved Bettinsoli Tarcisio on the barrels is actually the full name of the company rather than that of the model, which appears nowhere on the gun.
Both this gun and its successor, the Bettinsoli Super Sport II, were immediately recognised as astonishingly good value for money when they first appeared and considered the equals of guns costing double the amount.
The early models were supplied in a smartly lined case, later becoming a more functional one made of impact plastic.
A full set of chokes, an optional recoil pad and a compatible screwdriver were included in the price and, with luck, will still be with the gun when it enters the used market.
Most should be proofed for use with steel shot, although it always pays to check proof marks carefully to be certain.
Bettinsoli Tarcisio on the barrels is the full company name, not the model of the gun
First look at the The Bettinsoli Super Sport
At first sight, this shotgun simply looks right. The raised ventilated top and mid-ribs immediately suggest a gun intended for clay shooting, as do the extended chokes, which are easily replaced by hand rather than requiring a special tool. The woodwork is of medium grade walnut and the action is extensively but tastefully engraved with scrolls and acanthus leaves. A discreet gold woodcock is engraved in gold just forward of the trigger guard, a curious choice of decoration for a clay gun, and maybe the makers realised this as the Super Sport II features a rather more appropriate gold clay pigeon instead.
The barrel selector is typically Italian and can be found on the top strap
A catch
While the butt may be a little short for those with longer arms, the optional recoil pad provided, or another purchased off the shelf, should easily correct this and ensure a comfortable and well-suited fit for most people.
The semi-pistol grip fills the hand nicely and chequering cut into the wood ensures a comfortable and positive feel.
There is a single selective and adjustable trigger and barrels are selected with the safety catch that is not automatic, normal for a clay gun.
In fact, Bettinsoli always seems to opt for non-automatic safety catches, even on its game guns, where you would expect the opposite to enhance safer field use.
A bar, which can be fitted by any gunsmith, is available to convert most Bettinsoli guns to automatic safety, if desired.
Stocks can be a little short for some
Buyers of a Bettinsoli do need to be aware that about 15 years ago the company briefly developed an unfortunate reputation for shotguns that simultaneously discharged both barrels, an issue that was quickly and effectively addressed but which tarnished its image for a short while. It follows that any gun that was made around that time would benefit from an inspection by a gunsmith before you commit to buy.
The Browning B725 Sporter is a wholly new gun and carries a modern look, but it isn’t a radical departure…
But don’t let this put you off. The Super Sport is an attractive and very well put together shotgun that oozes style for its class and has the looks and feel of something far more expensive. It stands out from the crowd, shoots well and remains one of the best value for money models on the market.
The Brno Model 2 is a no-nonsense, accurate rifle that has stood the test of time, writes Charles Smith Jones
Brno Model 2
The second largest city in the Czech Republic is Brno. It is the home of the Zbrojovka Brno factory, which has been manufacturing goods as diverse as tractors and typewriters, as well as firearms, for over a century.
Although the light-machine gun designed there in the 1930s and later produced under license in the Royal Small Arms Factory in Enfield, became a mainstay of the British Army as the Bren (taking its name from the first two letters of each factory), mention Brno to any shooter and they will almost inevitably think of inexpensive, unpretentious and totally dependable hunting rifles.
While Brno other model numbers were popular, it is the Brno Model 2 or ZKM-452 that really caught the attention of shooters in Britain. Intended to update and refine the original Model 1, production started in 1953 and continued until around 2011, with a few minor changes to the basic design and a name change to the CZ 452. Owners of a more modern CZ .22 rimfire will find that it has a lot in common with a CZ 452 – and still shoots just as well. Brno barrels were made to last and, where they have had only to cope with soft lead bullets in relatively low velocities, have stood up to the years very well compared with faster, ‘hotter’ .22 centrefires, which are more prone to wear.
A telescopic sight replaced the tangent
Pest control
Certainly, the rifle pictured shoots as well today as it did when purchased second-hand some 30 years ago and is still in regular use for pest control duties and target practice. The Model 2 was offered in other rimfire calibres but is best known as a .22LR, with a reputation for accuracy.
The military style tangent sight, rather optimistically marked for range settings out to 200m, is functional but most users today may want to remove it to accommodate a telescopic sight mounted as low as practicable.
Modern scopes tend to have much larger objective bells than earlier models, so this little extra space may be valuable. The job is easily done, if a little fiddly, and involves depressing then sliding the leaf. It’s also important to be aware that very early Model 2s were fitted with non-standard dovetail rails, which may require special Brno-produced mounts.
The Model 2 has been produced in a number of variants including heavy ‘varmint’ barrels, reduced dimensions for young shooters and even a fullstock version. Although some later models left the factory threaded for a moderator most didn’t. There is sufficient space in front of the foresight to accept threading but it would be necessary to remove the foresight completely if you wanted to fit a model that sleeved back. When looking at any pre-owned rifle that has been used with a moderator, make sure that you check the crown and bore carefully. A previous owner might have stored the rifle with the moderator still fitted, resulting in corrosion and pitting.
The triggers are easily adjustable
Timeless design of the Brno Model 2
As with most Brno rifles, it is usually simple to identify the year of manufacture from the last two numbers of the year stamped into the left-hand side of the receiver.
The carbon steel barrel, which might alternately be hammer forged or lapped depending on when it was made, is threaded into the receiver frame (an exception is more recent rifles chambered for the .17 HM2 round, where the barrel is pinned into position).
Triggers are generally easily adjustable, and a detachable box magazine contains and feeds the rounds.
Magazines are generally of 5 or 10 round capacity although 15 and 25 round magazines are also available.
A welcome feature of Brno .22LR rifles, rare among other manufacturers, is that the magazine design has been largely unchanged over the years and a Model 2 magazine is interchangeable with its more modern equivalents.
Early ones were made from stamped steel, although cheaper polymer ones, which should also fit older guns without a problem, are now produced.
Today, the name of Brno has given way to the title CZ but the brand has otherwise changed little and is still subjected to the same strict levels of quality control.
Many of us who purchased a Model 2 in the distant past probably still own the same rifle and have never felt a need to upgrade it. Despite this, they are frequently offered for sale at very attractive prices and if you are looking for a no-nonsense, accurate pest control rifle, this may be just the one for you.
The Yildiz Wildfowler is a well-made bargain - that doesn't come from Spain, says Charles Smith Jones
Yildiz Wildfowler
Yildiz has been producing shotguns for 40 years and manufactures some 45,000 annually in a variety of models. It takes pride in its customer care and after-sales service, and also offers custom-made guns and special finishes.
Although Yildiz produces a wide range of side-by-side game guns under the model name of Elegant, UK importer and distributor Raytrade UK tends to offer only the 20-bore and .410 models, its rationale being that the UK market is already awash with 12-bore side-by-sides. Instead, it has focused on the wildfowling market with a model chambered for 3½in cartridges and barrelled for use with steel shot. Although this sector is usually dominated by semi-auto and over-and-under guns, the company has clearly identified a demand from those who prefer a more traditional shotgun configuration and met it
A splinter forend makes the gun elegant
Unsurprisingly, the gun is called the Yildiz Wildfowler. It remains in production and should not be confused with the Elegant models, which are intended for a more traditional game-shooting market and chambered to 3in. To confuse matters, Yildiz also produces an over-and-under called the Wildfowler Extreme.
The build of the Wildfowler is unlikely to disappoint, especially for a gun aimed at the more affordable end of the market.
In common with all Yildiz shotguns, it is strong, well made and has a simple but effective mechanism and drilled steel barrels.
The woodwork is walnut, available in several grades, with a semi-pistol grip and bold chequering to assist grip.
The butt has a solid rubber recoil pad.
It is an attractive gun with clean lines, good handling properties and dimensions that most adults will find comfortable.
Both ejector and non-ejector versions are offered.
The gun is supplied with five flush-fitting chokes
Recoil issues
The mechanical action does not rely on the energy of the first shot to enable the firing mechanism for the second. While with the 3½in chambering it is possible to use heavy magnum loads, the relatively light weight of the gun itself might mean that some people may find themselves rather too aware of the recoil. Some examples appearing on the used market recently have been fitted with sling swivels on the butt and barrels in continental style. This is likely to be a modification made by owners after purchase, perhaps to free up hands when struggling with decoys and other foreshore paraphernalia.
The white metal receiver may not be to everybody’s tastes
Laser-etched engraving on each side of the white metal of the action pictures a flying duck.
A single selective trigger allows barrels to be switched using the non-automatic safety catch and, in keeping with a wildfowling gun, they are proofed for modern steel shot.
Guns are supplied with a selection of five flush-fitting chokes and spares can easily be obtained.
The choke tubes tend to be marked with a series of dashes to indicate their constriction, rather than having more definitive markings. The more dashes, the more open the choke: one dash means ‘full’; five mean ‘cylinder’.
I have to say I’ve been looking forward to reviewing the Yildiz Wildfower Extreme for quite a while. I first…
If you are looking for a traditionally built side-by-side that offers the rather more unusual offering of multichokes, the Wildfowler may well be an option worth looking at. Although the walnut stock, blued barrels and white metal of the receiver may not be to everyone’s taste in a gun intended for marsh or foreshore use, in reality the Wildfowler offers a great deal more. Despite being ‘no-frills’, this gun would not look out of place on a walked-up day. And being able to change chokes in what is essentially a game gun offers versatility and an extended range of shooting opportunities.
Barrels are proofed for modern steel shot
Configuration: Side-by-side
Action: Boxlock
Trigger: Single
Safety catch: Non-automatic
Ejector/non ejector: Both available
Chamber: 3½in
Choke: Multichoke
Barrel length: 28in or 30in
Weight: 7lb
Available in calibres: 12-bore
Cost new: RRP £750 (non ejector), £850 (ejector)
Cost used: From around £400 depending on condition
Charles Smith Jones says most take to the Browning Gold Hunter as soon as they have fired off a few rounds
Browning Gold Hunter
The Gold model was introduced to the Browning catalogue in 1995 and was offered in a variety of configurations for the clay target and field markets. The target models tended to come in a 2¾in chambering, while the field versions were 3in or 3½in. The clay shot had a wide array of furniture and finishes to choose from, whereas the Browning Gold Hunter was more likely to be limited to a smaller variety of wood or synthetic stocks in plain or camouflage finishes. One variant, the Gold Light 10, was even chambered for 10-bore as it was aimed at the US wildfowling and turkey hunting market, though it is unlikely that you will find an example in a UK showroom.
Browning Gold Hunter
Taking a closer look at the Browning Gold Hunter
On the surface this is a plain gun with black metalwork and only its name engraved into it, while the pistol grip and fore-end have functionally cut checkering. The stock on most models is adjustable using shims, which allow it to be changed to improve fit to the individual. New guns were generally supplied with choke tubes in full, modified and improved cylinder in their Invector system, for which spares remain readily available. The vent-ribbed steel barrels have chromed chambers and should come proofed for use with steel shot.
The gun is operated by Browning’s “Active Valve” system that not only effectively controls the felt recoil but also means that Gold shotguns have a deserved reputation for cycling a wide variety of loads. With lighter ones most of the gases are used to work the action. Where magnum loads are involved only a small proportion of the gases are necessary and the remainder are vented through the Active Valve and away from the receiver. Additionally, because the gas piston and valve operate independently of each other, there is less pressure on the piston itself and as a result there is less wear and more efficient operation. There are no valves or friction rings to adjust, nor any O-rings that need replacing. It’s a good and proven system.
A recoil pad is fitted to the stock
Reduced recoil
Reduced recoil is an important side-benefit of this process and one reason why the Gold remains popular among shooters. The 20-bore version has a special reputation for being gentle on the shoulder, with a very smooth working action, and is an excellent choice for the young, new or slightly built shooter. Whatever the calibre, this is a gun that you can put a great many cartridges through over a short period without experiencing any serious discomfort.
The innovative speed-loading system sends cartridges straight to the chamber
Speed-loading
The Browning Gold Hunter also offers a speed-loading system. When the bolt of an empty gun locks to the rear, inserting a cartridge into the magazine will send it straight to the chamber and ensure that the gun is ready to fire immediately without the need for any further actions. When the shooting is fast and furious, such as in a busy pigeon hide, this is a very handy feature.
If Browning shotguns have ever tended to have a fault it has usually been the trigger pull, invariably heavy in a new gun but easily rectified by a gunsmith. The trigger itself though is comfortably rounded and more ergonomic than some others you come across. The safety catch is where you would usually expect to find it just in front of the trigger guard; it is slightly larger than the norm and easy to find even with gloved hands. One feature offered in some models is the unusual option of it being reversible, a real bonus for left-handers.
The forend houses the gas assembly
The Gold Hunter is one of those guns that you pick up and just take to after firing only a few cartridges. With its natural fit and smooth, easy swing it has converted more than one “gas gun” hater to a true believer and for good reason. Reliable and pleasant to shoot, it is not difficult to understand why it has a huge fanbase. If you are looking for a rugged and well-constructed semi-auto that comes with a strong reputation, it’s a great one to include on your shortlist.
The gas piston and valve operate independently, reducing wear and improving efficiency
Tech specs for the Browning Gold Hunter
Configuration: Semi-automatic
Action: Gas operated
Choke: Multi choke
Chamber: 3in or 3½in
Barrel length: 26in to 30in
Magazine: Available in both FAC and SGC capacities
